Looking for a brilliant bowl of ramen while exploring downtown? Then head to Muraji for some chicken broth ramen served in a classic old Kyoto machiya.
The classic Muraji paitan ramen with all the fixings, plus extra © Florentyna Leow
“Paitan” is written with the characters for “white” and “soup,” and refers to an opaque, white bone broth style of ramen where the bones are simmered for hours until they break down into a milky broth. As a general rule of thumb, I am not the hugest fan of paitan-style ramen, as it’s often a little too thick for my liking. However, I am willing to make an exception for Muraji’s chicken paitan ramen, which is a chicken soup ramen bowl for the soul.
Muraji is located in the middle of the downtown core, about a block south of Sanjo. It can be very busy on weekends or during peak travel season in Kyoto, with queues around the block, but on a September weekday at half past eleven, I was the first person there. If you’re able to drop by early, I’d certainly advise doing so.
A tastefully decorated interior befitting a modern cafe © Florentyna Leow
Muraji is a refurbished machiya (old Kyoto wooden house), which is a nice change from the scruffy atmosphere of your typical ramen joint. Interior decoration-wise, it is rather understated, with elegant wooden furniture, paper lanterns and spare but beautifully-arranged branches in vases. With soft Bossa nova music in the background, it feels more like a cafe than your typical ramen joint.
The menu is written in three languages and has photos alongside © Florentyna Leow
A charmingly-translated English, Chinese and Korean menu makes ordering super easy. And the super friendly waitresses will try to explain things as best they can! Their chicken paitan base is available two ways – flavored with shio (salt), or shoyu (soy sauce). The classic bowl does have chicken slices and bamboo slices, but I would recommend adding an egg or even more chicken for a more filling bowl.
I usually like my ramen flavored with shoyu, but decided this time that I wanted to taste the broth on its own merits. A salt-flavored bowl it was, with additional menma bamboo slices, chicken slices and a simmered egg – who could resist adding an egg to ramen noodles?
The lightly creamy sauces fit these thin noodles perfectly © Florentyna Leow
Their shio-flavoured broth is fantastic, as are the thin, firm noodles. Though the broth has a lightly creamy, veloute-like texture, the salt-enhanced chicken flavor shines through beautifully. It’s rich, but not at all sludgy or overwhelming, unlike many paitan-style ramen bowls. It’s the kind of noodle bowl I want when I’m feeling under the weather, and need something warm, gentle and comforting. Chicken charshu slices are an excellent accompaniment here – a filling but not heavy protein component for the noodles.
I always pay special attention to the egg component in ramen, and I liked the egg at Muraji a great deal. Ramen eggs tend to be soaked in a shoyu-based marinade, but these had been coddled in a gentle dashi broth. In this case, it was a great choice – a standard soy egg would have clashed too much with the salt-spiked chicken paitan soup, which is the star of the show here.
No globs of fat floating on top of your ramen broth here! © Florentyna Leow
Another unusual touch here was the thin, deep-fried strips of burdock root. Bitterness is one element that’s often missing from ramen, and the herbal bitterness was lovely counterpoint to the soup. My only gripe is that the bamboo shoots were rather underwhelming and forgettable, so when requesting extra toppings I would skip these. A dash of red ichimi pepper, provided in small jars on the table, adds a welcome dose of spicy heat.
The ladies who run Muraji are absolute sweethearts and make fantastic ramen. If you’re downtown and need a quick, delicious lunch – especially if it’s a little chilly out – this is the place to go.
For more Kyoto ramen choices, see our Best Ramen in Kyoto page.
Name in English:
Ramen Muraji
Name in Japanese
祇園麺処 むらじ
English address:
404 Izutsuyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 605-0084
Japanese address:
〒604-8113 京都府京都市中京区井筒屋町404
Opening hours:
11:30am-10:00pm (daily)
Non-smoking area:
Yes
Nearest transport:
8-minute walk from Karasuma Oike Station on the Karasuma and Tozai subway lines
5-minute walk from Karasuma Station on the Hankyu Line
Website: Instagram
Customer Reviews:
Read customer reviews of Ramen Muraji on TripAdvisor
Near To Here:
Ramen Muraji is located in the heart of Downtown Kyoto. It’s about five minutes’ walk from Nishiki Market. See our complete list of things to do in Downtown Kyoto, including places to eat, nightlife and places to stay.
About Florentyna Leow
Florentyna Leow is a writer and photographer based in Kyoto, who has written for outlets such as Silverkris, ZenVita and Lucky Peach. Her interests include food, doors, and Thomassons. Read her blog or connect with her on Instagram @furochan_eats.
Kyoto Vacation Checklist
- For all the essentials in a brief overview, see my First Time In Kyoto guide
- Check Kyoto accommodation availability on Booking.com and Agoda.com - often you can book with no upfront payment and free cancellation
- You can buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets online from Klook - popular routes include Tokyo to Kyoto, Kyoto to Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo
- Need tips on where to stay? See my one page guide Where To Stay In Kyoto
- See my comprehensive Packing List For Japan
- You can buy an eSim to activate in Japan or buy a data-only SIM card online for collection when you arrive at Tokyo's Narita or Haneda Airports or Kansai International Airport. You can also rent an unlimited data pocket wifi router
- Compare Japan flight prices and timings to find the best deals
- If you're making frequent train journeys during your visit, you might save money with Japan Rail Pass – see if it's worth it for you
- World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world
- Do you want help planning your trip? Chris Rowthorn and his team of Japan experts at Japan Travel Consulting can help
